Last Nights in Toscana

Max, Lily, Charlotte: Posing by the sea before dinner

Max, Lily, Charlotte: Posing by the sea before dinner

We wound up staying Monday through Sunday morning. Friday night, we went to a restaurant in Orbetello (Il Pischeri) where the specialty is fresh-caught fish; it’s run by fishermen and they serve you the catch of the day, each night. You arrive, get a number, place your order when your number is called, pay, and then go outside to a community-style table, and wait for your number to be called again. A very dramatic Italian stands at a microphone calling out numbers, then you get a styrofoam crate with your order in it and return to eat at the table.

We missed our number to order somehow, and Olivier cut ahead of a crowd of Italians inside the restaurant, spoke to the guy at the cash register, and managed to get ourselves back in the queue. He said you have to be aggressive here if you want to get your way.

The meal featured pasta with zucchini as a starter, followed by grilled Spigola, and finishing with a salad. Max got the eyeball again from the fish, which I found a touch disturbing – but was still curious what it tasted like myself. We then went for Gelato, and back to the house. Miriam offered me a whiskey, and we went through my music collection on the laptop to decide what to leave with her. After an hour and a half, we had only gotten to “E.”

On Saturday, we took a break from the beach since weekends are crowded there. Instead, we went to the farm (La Parrina) to buy jams and wine; everything’s made there at the farm. We got greens and watermelon for lunch, and Olivier went to procure clams and calamari for dinner. We then spent the afternoon in the pool – it was nice to have a day just lounging at the house, organizing ourselves for our return journey. We decided to spend a day and a night in Florence, then go on to Innsbruck, Austria.

Olivier was disappointed with the wine (a French 03, a year of a bad heat wave in France), and the Pasta Vongole (which he cooked), and the squid (which needed salt, or something). We wound up throwing away a lot of it, but I finished a cigar I had started earlier in the day by the pool, and had tea with biscotti and the Christ wine (Vin Santo) they use for dipping with the biscotti.

Miriam went out for croissants Sunday morning, and picked up some more diapers for us, for the road.

Categories: travel, Travelogue 2009


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