When we get emails from the pre-K school, the subject line just says Garden. It took me a while, but I figured out this is because Charlotte’s grade level there is called Garden. When my mom thinks Merlin needs to… Read More ›


The “Fach” in Fachwerk sounds like Bach, along with the phlegmy part at the end. It describes the half-timbered style of houses in my mom’s town, and translates literally as framework. The timber is exposed, and the infill is comprised… Read More ›

Dick Mack’s

I finally had my quintessential Irish pub moment today: a windy, misty Sunday in Dingle. Dawn and Charlotte went back to the B&B in hopes that Charlotte would nap there, which left me and Lily on our own down in… Read More ›

Go Mall

We are in Irish-speaking country now, on the north side of county Kerry, near the ever-popular “Ring of Kerry,” which we will avoid. “Go Mall” means slow down in Irish, and it’s painted on the roads in many places. Despite… Read More ›


As a show of moral conviction, I was seriously thinking about a visit to the concentration camp here, to balance out my weekend of beer and excess. 15 years ago, on my first trip to Munich, my girlfriend wanted to… Read More ›